We
were two not-yet-dry-behind-the-ear kids, with a lot of gray in our hair, who
got caught up in a “snipe” hunt. This time we laughed about it.
My wife and I got a hankering for
an unhurried, uncluttered -- romantic in Dr. Phil speak -- look at the Texas
coast and a taste of shrimp gumbo, oysters, spicy crab-cakes, soft shell
crabs, and all things fishy. Autumn is a good time to do that. Though,
we didn’t intend to eat up everything in the bay.
Rockport is a living Robert Wood
Seascape thirty or so miles up the coast from Corpus Christi and a short drive
and ferryboat float of similar distance from Port Aransas. We Dallas-ites
used to hook ‘em to North Padre Island and Aransas for an annual charring of
bodies -- AKA beaching -- through the years. We had never been to
Rockport.
For those who depend on someone or
something for entertainment in a big citified way this isn’t your place.
Here, at least in the autumn, you get away from the superficiality, noise and
chutzpa of the city. Yeah, you might call it a lower case Kennebunkport , a
much lower case.
But you don’t need an Ivy League
footprint to hang all ten on a fishing pier. Holding your sweetie’s
hand, or a dog’s leash, or both, and strolling along the harbor, or throwing
in a fishing line, are the best games going. Bird watching, just
inhaling the fresh salty air and bay-gazing isn’t far behind.
Of this I’m sure, There are
enough trawlers, sailboats and assorted pleasure crafts to create the effect
Mr. Wood wanted for his paintings -- a stunning foreground for a stunning
sunset.
there are more boardwalks,
piers and fishing poles per windblown inhabitant than anywhere else in the
world.
Don’t misunderstand. There
are enough small art galleries, antique stores, assorted shops and a couple of
museums for those who tire of hooking on some small marine life in favor of
the thrill of catching a bigger marine life.
We even toured a stately mansion
that was built by George Fulton (namesake for the county) who departed a long
time ago. We learned about his 1870’s genius; the architecture,
mahogany splendor and transom air-flow of the house -- and birth control.
Yep, that’s what I said.
The friendly docent gave us a
private tour of the 6500 square-foot architectural masterpiece, paused at the
master bedroom and explained: “In those days the better mattresses
were stuffed with horse hair, which was coarse and prickly. The hair
penetrated the lining and got uncomfortable, particularly when turning
over.”
And thrashing about, I thought.
“One of the early forms of birth
control, eh?” I asked. There was a smile but no confirmation.
We arrived in the lobby of our “
Inn ” looking as tourista as Rodney Dangerfield, when a convivial local
fellow answered our question directed to the front desk, “So what are the
‘can’t miss’ attractions around here?”
“Well, you know the Whooping
Cranes winter down here. If you’ll go over to Copano Cove you might
see a ‘Pink Crane’ or in technical terms a ‘Sand Hill' Crane.
Finding a pink feather is like finding a pot of gold.”
Off we go with camera in hand as
excited as two really big kids can get. We drove into every cove and
marsh in the county only to find a few standard five-foot-tall white whooping
cranes; a striking sight to see nonetheless. Tired and without a pink feather,
we returned to the Inn , poured a glass of wine and walked to a prime viewing
area. There I broke the news to my sweetie.
“Do you remember the stories
about ‘Snipe’ hunting back in my youth? You know, the young and
naive are sent into the woods to catch something that doesn’t exist. I
just saw the guy who told us about pink cranes down at the bar laughing with
his buddies.”
We peered over the shimmering
harbor with its naked hoists, masts, jibs and spars saluting the sinking sun.
The heavens as if on cue turned darker hues of blue, lavender, magenta and
pink. “At least some things are pink”, I whispered.
We had another glass of wine and
laughed.